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American Standard Yorkville Toilet Install

March 8, 2012

I purchased an American Standard Yorkville toilet — it is a floor-mounted, back-outlet model with pressure assist.  I went this route when planning the basement because my basement didn’t have any rough-in plumbing, and I thought it would be easier (and less expensive) to have the rough-in done this way.   Turns out the plumber still broke open the floor, but at about $1,500 for the rough-in for a toilet, washing machine, and three sinks I think the price was pretty reasonable in the end — and it gave me the greatest flexibility for toilet location with the least amount of labor.

The specifications for the toilet tell you to use a neoprene or carbon-fiber flange gasket — as opposed to a standard wax ring.  I began shopping for what I would need a few weeks ago, and wasn’t able to find anything of that nature from Lowes or Home Depot, and searching for a “neoprene gasket” resulted in the right part, but it cost $50 — a bit steep.  (In retrospect, searching for “zurn neo-seal” finds the same part for about $20 from different sellers, but more on that later). 

I decided to try the “SaniSeal” after chatting online with them.  I think it cost about $15.   To be fair, they said it was not intended for a wall-mount toilet, but that they had heard of people buying it for that purpose.  I bought the SaniSeal from and it came a few days later.  After trying to dry-fit it, it was clear that it would not work — the SaniSeal gasket has a flange on it, and when I inserted the flange into the drain, it folded back on itself.  I definitely did not want that to happen once I made the connections, so I am saving the SaniSeal for the next time I need to work on a regular, floor-outlet toilet.

Frustrated that no one at the big box stores had any idea of what I was looking for and my (first) attempt to rig something had failed, I called American Standard.  My first call was dropped after being on hold for twelve minutes, but I got through on my second call.  I asked if they could recommend a gasket, and the rep said “any gasket for a wall-mount toilet would work — they are standard.”  I pushed a little and the rep refused to recommend a brand or even a specific size, so I was pretty frustrated.

So I searched for a local plumbing supply.  They had gaskets for commercial wall-mounted toilets, so I stopped by.  The gasket was the Zurn part I had seen online for $50, but it only cost $18.  I purchased it and again tried to dry-fit it.  The first thing I noticed — the gasket did not fit snuggly against the toilet’s outlet horn.  Second, I could not compress the gasket enough (neoprene is a foam-like rubber, apparently) to get the toilet to fit snuggly against the wall (yes, the plumbing is installed to spec).  It’s possible that it would have compressed enough when tightening the bolts, but I was concerned because the gasket didn’t seem that compressible to me, and I wasn’t convinced that (a) I wouldn’t break the toilet and (b) that the seal would be any good.

So I went back to something I had considered from my first trip to Lowes, and I think this worked beautifully (I’ve had the toilet installed for almost a week now, and no sign of trouble — and I can see the back side of the wall so I think any leakage would be evident).

Parts needed:  (1) Fluidmaster Wax-Free Toilet Bowl Gasket (part number 7500), (1) standard wax ring (without a rubber flange), and silicone sealant.  I liked the idea of the Fluidmaster part, because I felt that if I could make a good connection to the toilet horn, I wouldn’t have to worry about any leakage at the joint, because it has what is essentially a funnel that inserts into the plumbing.

The Fluidmaster comes with several neoprene rings that fit on the thin part of the funnel to prevent any back-flow.  The first thing I did was to dry fit the funnel with the right sized ring to make sure it fits snuggly into the wall drain.   In my case, I used the medium sized ring.  I then removed the gasket and dry fit it to the toilet.

The Fluidmaster gasket has a rubber seal on “top” which slides (snuggly) over the toilet horn.  What I didn’t like about it, though, was that it had a rather sharp step-up as the funnel reduced (as opposed to being a sloped incline, it was closer to a right angle).  So I filled the void between rubber gasket and the “step” of the funnel with the wax ring — I basically ripped the wax ring apart, warmed it in my hands, and filled the void).  I then put silicone sealant around the outside of the toilet horn, pushed the Fluidmaster gasket back onto the horn, and smoothed the wax as best I could.  I gobbed a little more silicone sealant around the outside of the gasket to try to make sure it was sealed tight.  I let the silicone dry for a couple of hours. 

I was then able to proceed with the install basically according to the instructions from American Standard — basically just lining it up, pushed it into place, and tightened the bolts at the wall.

Other than having to “wing” the install, we’ve been pretty happy with the toilet.  It is pressure assisted — so while it’s a bit louder than a normal toilet, it’s not as loud as I feared it might be.

Good luck!

EDIT:  I was speaking to a friend of the family that was a superintendent of a school system for twenty years about this toilet install.  He commented that all of the toilets in his system were wall mounted, and they never thought twice about using a wax ring.  So if you’re in a pinch, you might want to consider going that route.  I still feel pretty good about the system I rigged, but at least one professional lauged at my over-engineering this.


From → Interior Design

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